Comments on: X-Clamp Replacement and Shroud Mod (360 RoL Fix) http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/ Personal page of Michael Cowan Mon, 06 Feb 2012 19:34:32 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.0.3 by: Pranesh http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28643 Wed, 10 Nov 2010 01:03:28 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28643 I think you may see a renewed interest in it. I just reworked a box that had a manufacture date of November 13, 2007. But MS said it was out of warranty because it was shipped out as a replacement for another box that was bought in 2006. The 2007 box just failed about a week ago. So as these older boxes drop out of the three year warranty, some people may be looking to fix them again--even legitimate unhacked ones, though of course the bulk of them have probabaly already failed. If you own one of these older boxes, it's a RROD waiting to happen. I'd advise to X-Clamp fix any box with a manufacture date before 2008...period. It's going to fail. It's just a matter of when. You need to change the heatsink compound anyway. I've yet to see one that didn't have heatsink compound that looked like hardened paste. It's actually very difficult to get it completely off. If it's made before mid-2008, I'd check and see what chips are in it. I think you may see a renewed interest in it. I just reworked a box that had a manufacture date of November 13, 2007. But MS said it was out of warranty because it was shipped out as a replacement for another box that was bought in 2006. The 2007 box just failed about a week ago. So as these older boxes drop out of the three year warranty, some people may be looking to fix them again–even legitimate unhacked ones, though of course the bulk of them have probabaly already failed. If you own one of these older boxes, it’s a RROD waiting to happen. I’d advise to X-Clamp fix any box with a manufacture date before 2008…period. It’s going to fail. It’s just a matter of when. You need to change the heatsink compound anyway. I’ve yet to see one that didn’t have heatsink compound that looked like hardened paste. It’s actually very difficult to get it completely off. If it’s made before mid-2008, I’d check and see what chips are in it.

]]> by: michael_cowan http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28632 Tue, 09 Nov 2010 13:39:39 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28632 <b>@Pranesh</b> There is a risk of overtightening but the alternative is undertightening. I measured the heights very accurately but the problem is that there are no washers that are manufactured to the same tollerances - so bedding has to be done by 'feel'. Also its worth noting that I rarely add a shim - its something I tried on a hunch that worked on a stubborn box that I thought worth mentioning (Really I need to update this post - comments like yours help keep the information up to date, so thanks). Your method for reflow does seem popular. Personally I think its safer to use the heat gun but this may well not do as good a job. Perhaps a good idea would be to try the gun first and if it fails overheating? The photos script is now back online. @Pranesh There is a risk of overtightening but the alternative is undertightening. I measured the heights very accurately but the problem is that there are no washers that are manufactured to the same tollerances - so bedding has to be done by ‘feel’. Also its worth noting that I rarely add a shim - its something I tried on a hunch that worked on a stubborn box that I thought worth mentioning (Really I need to update this post - comments like yours help keep the information up to date, so thanks).

Your method for reflow does seem popular. Personally I think its safer to use the heat gun but this may well not do as good a job. Perhaps a good idea would be to try the gun first and if it fails overheating?

The photos script is now back online.

]]> by: Pranesh http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28621 Tue, 09 Nov 2010 03:14:59 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28621 I'd like to see the photos of the shroud fix, but when I try to click them to zoom them up, I get sent to a list of blogs. I’d like to see the photos of the shroud fix, but when I try to click them to zoom them up, I get sent to a list of blogs.

]]> by: Pranesh http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28620 Tue, 09 Nov 2010 03:12:00 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-28620 To reflow the GPU solder, do the X-Clamp fix. Pull the fan shroud out of the box. Put the DVD back in. Set one half of the plugged in fan on top of the DVD and put the other so it blows down on the CPU. I usually block the secondary GPU heatsink with paper if it has one. Run the box for about 45 minutes. This will melt the solder on the GPU. I've done it successfully several times. Even if you still have three red lights after the x-clamp fix, this will fix it. There are a lot of other X-Clamp fixes out there that use 2mm spacers on the top of the board. This keeps the heatsink from really bearing down on the chip. I am on the fence as to which is better. Some of them use nylon washers. You have to be careful not to crank down so hard you crack them. If you use flattened 3/16" 1mm lockwashers at the board interface so as not to short the traces with metal washers, you can tighten as hard as you want and you really can't get too much pressure assuming 2mm of washers. It looks like you are claiming the CPU is at about 1.5mm and the GPU is at 2 mm, and you are shimming the GPU up another half and then compressing both back by a half mm, but there's obvious risk of overtightening in that case. Interesting. I will have to take more measurements. I am intrigued now as to which is better. Also, I didn't realize the height of the CPU die was different than that of the GPU. To reflow the GPU solder, do the X-Clamp fix. Pull the fan shroud out of the box. Put the DVD back in. Set one half of the plugged in fan on top of the DVD and put the other so it blows down on the CPU. I usually block the secondary GPU heatsink with paper if it has one. Run the box for about 45 minutes. This will melt the solder on the GPU. I’ve done it successfully several times. Even if you still have three red lights after the x-clamp fix, this will fix it.

There are a lot of other X-Clamp fixes out there that use 2mm spacers on the top of the board. This keeps the heatsink from really bearing down on the chip. I am on the fence as to which is better. Some of them use nylon washers. You have to be careful not to crank down so hard you crack them. If you use flattened 3/16″ 1mm lockwashers at the board interface so as not to short the traces with metal washers, you can tighten as hard as you want and you really can’t get too much pressure assuming 2mm of washers. It looks like you are claiming the CPU is at about 1.5mm and the GPU is at 2 mm, and you are shimming the GPU up another half and then compressing both back by a half mm, but there’s obvious risk of overtightening in that case. Interesting. I will have to take more measurements. I am intrigued now as to which is better. Also, I didn’t realize the height of the CPU die was different than that of the GPU.

]]> by: p4rma http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-26023 Tue, 18 May 2010 20:43:34 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-26023 Hi, thanks for the guide. My xbox doesnt have the 3 red lights anymore and can get on the dash board, but now the dvd drive cant read any dvds :'( anyone know a fix? Hi, thanks for the guide. My xbox doesnt have the 3 red lights anymore and can get on the dash board, but now the dvd drive cant read any dvds :’( anyone know a fix?

]]> by: Joel http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-24990 Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:40:19 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-24990 You need to get the DVD Drive off the GPU so it doesn't overheat. You can buy 20 inch DVD Drive Power Cables so you can mount the DVD Drive on top of the case. Go to Google and type in Airflow Cables You need to get the DVD Drive off the GPU so it doesn’t overheat. You can buy 20 inch DVD Drive Power Cables so you can mount the DVD Drive on top of the case. Go to Google and type in Airflow Cables

]]> by: Warren http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-24440 Fri, 19 Feb 2010 03:25:18 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-24440 Actually the four lights, followed by the fans speeding up and then shut down is the RAM chips.(4 chips located around the GPU) I do a reflow, but the penny fix may work for a time also. The penny trick presses the RAM back to the board on the underside.(or do both) Be careful if using the heatgun on the RAM. Hope this helps Actually the four lights, followed by the fans speeding up and then shut down is the RAM chips.(4 chips located around the GPU) I do a reflow, but the penny fix may work for a time also. The penny trick presses the RAM back to the board on the underside.(or do both) Be careful if using the heatgun on the RAM. Hope this helps

]]> by: michael_cowan http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-23405 Sun, 03 Jan 2010 11:19:01 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-23405 <b>skcatch:</b> You can <a href="http://lmgtfy.com/?q=xbox+heat+gun+tutorial" rel="nofollow">search for tutorials easily.</a> I have not got round to writing a tutorial for this yet because I didn't deem it necessary. If its requested enough Ill put one together. To get you started here is a run down of the steps that work for me: 1. Remove the motherboard completely, turn the metal case upside down and place the board upside onto it (this keeps the board off the deck when using the heat gun). 2. Use the heat gun on a cooler setting (or further away) in a circular motion around the board to warm it up. Do this to both sides of the board. 3. Crank up the heat and continue circular motions around the back of the GPU and CPU areas. Keep moving and keep the distance from the board to around 4". Do this for about 2 mins. 4. Leave to cool for at least 2 mins. 5. Flip the board over. Cover as much of the plastic, capacitors and other sensitive electronics (other than the GPU and CPU) as possible with tin foil. 6. Repeat steps 3 and 4. skcatch: You can search for tutorials easily.

I have not got round to writing a tutorial for this yet because I didn’t deem it necessary. If its requested enough Ill put one together.

To get you started here is a run down of the steps that work for me:

1. Remove the motherboard completely, turn the metal case upside down and place the board upside onto it (this keeps the board off the deck when using the heat gun).

2. Use the heat gun on a cooler setting (or further away) in a circular motion around the board to warm it up. Do this to both sides of the board.

3. Crank up the heat and continue circular motions around the back of the GPU and CPU areas. Keep moving and keep the distance from the board to around 4″. Do this for about 2 mins.

4. Leave to cool for at least 2 mins.

5. Flip the board over. Cover as much of the plastic, capacitors and other sensitive electronics (other than the GPU and CPU) as possible with tin foil.

6. Repeat steps 3 and 4.

]]> by: skcatch http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-23394 Sun, 03 Jan 2010 03:03:15 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-23394 I was wondering if anyone has or knows where I can get a detailed description on how to do the heat gun trick? I have tried it with two motherboards and failed. Before I try the heat gun, I always do the x-clamp mod first. Most of the time this works, but when it doesn't I try to use the heat gun trick and it never works. Thanks in advance and I think this is a great forum. I was wondering if anyone has or knows where I can get a detailed description on how to do the heat gun trick? I have tried it with two motherboards and failed. Before I try the heat gun, I always do the x-clamp mod first. Most of the time this works, but when it doesn’t I try to use the heat gun trick and it never works. Thanks in advance and I think this is a great forum.

]]> by: michael_cowan http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-23342 Thu, 31 Dec 2009 11:43:20 +0000 http://blog.reloadsystems.net/2007/08/14/x-clamp-replacement-and-shroud-mod-360-rol-fix/#comment-23342 <b>Alv:</b> I would <b>not</b> recommend purposely overheating any performance chip, in particular a GPU. As I said in my last comment I have had some success with the heat gun trick in <i>conjunction</i> with the x clamp replacement. The reason I believe the x clamp replacement steps work has been discussed throughout the post: <i> "Im also currious as to why you think this method will warp the board? If you read the second line of step two you will see that if done properly these steps are designed to stop bending, not cause it: “… to avoid bending, washers are used …” It is also my opinion that the problem is not the arrangement of pins (BGA) but rather the leadless solder used which is very brittle and susceptible to snapping. When under high load and hot, a stock board is free to bend slightly which aggravates the solder until eventually it fails." </i> Alv: I would not recommend purposely overheating any performance chip, in particular a GPU.

As I said in my last comment I have had some success with the heat gun trick in conjunction with the x clamp replacement.

The reason I believe the x clamp replacement steps work has been discussed throughout the post:

“Im also currious as to why you think this method will warp the board? If you read the second line of step two you will see that if done properly these steps are designed to stop bending, not cause it: “… to avoid bending, washers are used …”

It is also my opinion that the problem is not the arrangement of pins (BGA) but rather the leadless solder used which is very brittle and susceptible to snapping. When under high load and hot, a stock board is free to bend slightly which aggravates the solder until eventually it fails.”

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