X-Clamp Replacement and Shroud Mod (360 RoL Fix)
Since my previous attempts to increase stability on my crashing xbox 360 (crashed every 1.5 hours) and subsequent death of my main gaming 360 (RoL - 3 lights of death) I have been reading a lot about the suspected causes of the issues widely seen on the console.
The following is a guide to the work I carried out that has so far proven to be a permanent fix for both of my dead 360’s and something I recommend all 360 owners (with no warranty) do, even before the dreaded ‘Ring of Death’. Based on the findings of RBJTech, these mods are less evasive, simple and reversible (pretty much).
The following is a list of the parts I used and tools required:
|(8) - button head M5 x 20mm screws||Ideally use M5 x 15mm. 4 of the bolts will need to be cut to 15mm|
|(60) - 5mm washers||These should be approximately 0.9mm thick|
|Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound||To replace the thermal paste used by the factory|
|Isopropyl Alcohol solution||Used to remove the old thermal grease. Lighter fluid can be used|
|Small piece of Aluminum sheet approximately 0.5mm thick||Used to cut a shim for the GPU|
|Insulation tape and card||Increase and separate air flow in the shroud|
|XCM unlock kit||Or similar - optionally make your own|
|T9 Torx screwdriver||Used to remove the heat sink screws|
|T10 Torx screwdriver||Used to remove the case screws (A T9 will also work)|
|Long nose pliers||To remove the X clamps|
|Tin snips||For cutting an Aluminum shim|
|5mm drill bit and drill||Expanding the heat sink mount holes|
1. Strip the Console
The first step is to strip the 360 and remove the heat sinks. Try and work on a large flat surface and I advise the use of an anti static wrist band. XCM have provided a good tutorial for using there unlock kit, so I wont provide too much detail here.
- Start by removing the face and top and bottom covers. Split the case and remove the bottom half.
- Remove the DVD drive, cables, shroud, fans and RF unit (the front panel with 4 LED’s). The plastic cover on the RF unit will need to be removed to reveal the 3rd T9 screw.
- Flip the console over. You will be able to see the 8 T9 screws that hold the heat sinks on. Remove these then remove the remaining T10 screws.
- Remove the board. This is best done by lifting the front first and letting it slide out.
- Turn the board over to reveal the X clamps that need replaced. To remove the clamps I used a pair of long nose pliers and carefully twisted the ends until they came free. This can take some considerable effort but must be done with extreme care. If any of the delicate surface mount components are damaged the xbox will not be easy to repair.
- Remove the mount screws from the heat sinks. The clamps, mount screws and plastic spacers will not be needed again.
- You can now see the exposed GPU and CPU. To clean the old thermal paste, lighter fluid can be used.
2. X-Clamp Replacement Modification
- Drill the 8 heat sink holes to 5mm and remember to clean the case after. To seat the board properly in the case and to avoid bending, washers are used to match the height of the seats pressed into the case. I used 5 washers totaling to 4.5mm but I would say 4.3mm is ideal.
- Insert the 8 button screws through the mount holes and hold in place with tape on the back. If you only have 4 15mm screws then use these on the GPU (left) side of the case. Put 5 washers on each of the screws.
- Cut a shim measuring 25×15x0.5mm from flat Aluminum. Put fresh thermal paste on the GPU and CPU. Place the shim over the GPU and add more thermal paste.
- Replace the board into the case, using the tip of a screwdriver to help align the screws into the holes. Place 2 washers on each of the GPU screws. Place 1 washer on each of the CPU screws. Turn the case onto its side, holding the GPU heat sink in place and carefully turn each screw till it beds. Slowly tighten each screw equally until the heat sink is sitting properly and on tight. Do the same with the CPU heat sink.
- To split the air flow evenly, a piece of card 53×78mm is used. This has a section 12×22mm removed from one corner. To help remove airflow from the DVD drive, a piece of card 90×70mm is used. Hold these pieces in place with tape. A tab will need to be cut into the air flow separator to allow it to fit properly.
- Replace the fans and shroud onto the console. Cut a piece of card 25×65mm to increase airflow to the CPU heat sink. As before tape into place but add another piece to hold securely to the heat sink. Replace the cables, DVD drive and RF unit.
- Reassemble the case and power on the console. You may need to power cycle a few times before the unit powers as normal. Try running a game and notice that the air flow from the fans is hotter than normal. This is good and shows that the modification is working as more heat is being removed than before. If the issue remains check that the bolts are on tight and making good contact.
- X-clamp replacement and shroud modification is clearly better than your mother
3. Shroud Modification
- FIN -
About this entry
You’re currently reading “X-Clamp Replacement and Shroud Mod (360 RoL Fix),” an entry on ReloadSystems
- 08.14.07 / 2pm
- XBOX 360